Basics

Taking your measurements for a made-to-measure pattern

Tie a band, keep circumferences level and lengths vertical: how to take the measurements for Han, Merl, Pulo and Wleg, and how to spot mistakes before you order.

On the left a front view with tape measures at high bust, bust, waist and hip. On the right two side views: one with a level tape (right) and one with a tilted tape (wrong)

A made-to-measure pattern is only as good as the numbers it is made from. We use every measurement exactly as you enter it, so an extra centimetre at the hip or a crooked back length goes straight into the pattern.

The good news: measuring well isn't difficult. You need a tape measure, a narrow band for your waist, a second person for your back and about half an hour of calm. The order form has a short explanation next to every measurement. Here we show you what matters and where the most common mistakes creep in.

What you need

A tape measure that hasn't stretched
A narrow band or piece of elastic for your waist
A second person for your back and the lengths
A large mirror
Paper and pen
Underwear; for tops and dresses the bra you will wear underneath

Step 1

Getting ready and tying the band

On the left a figure in underwear with a narrow teal band at the waist. On the right a tape measure, a piece of elastic, a notepad and a pencil

Measure in your underwear and barefoot. For tops and dresses, wear the bra you'll wear underneath later. Bust and high bust must be measured in the same bra.

Then tie a narrow band around your waist. All lengths start or end at its lower edge. Where it sits depends on the pattern:

Tops and dresses (Merl, Pulo): at your natural waist, the narrowest point. Bend to the side: where a crease forms, that's it.
Trousers and leggings (Han, Wleg): where you want the waistband to sit later, even if that's lower.

Keep the band on while you measure everything. Check your tape measure against a ruler once: old tapes stretch over time.

Step 2

Circumferences: level and snug

For every circumference the tape runs level all the way round, at the back too. Look in the mirror or ask your helper to check: the tape likes to slip down at the back, and the measurement is too big. The tape lies snug without digging in.

Bust: around the fullest part, under your arms.
High bust: right up under your armpits, above the bust at the front, level across your shoulder blades at the back. Don't measure under the bust; that's a different measurement.
Waist: exactly at the band.
Hip: around the fullest part of seat and hips. It's often lower than you think. Slide the tape up and down a few times and take the largest value.

The same goes for the legs (thigh, knee, calf): at the fullest part, leg relaxed.

Step 3

Lengths on your upper body

On the left a back view: an arrow from the neck vertebra to the waist band, a horizontal arrow for back width and a short arrow from neck to shoulder point. On the right the upper body from the front with an arrow from the side of the neck to the bust point and a horizontal arrow between the bust points

Your helper takes these while you stand upright and look straight ahead.

Back length: from the prominent neck vertebra down the centre back to the band. You find the vertebra by tilting your head forward: it's the bone that sticks out most.
Back width: across the back from arm crease to arm crease, arms hanging relaxed.
Shoulder length: from the side of the neck to the shoulder point. You feel the shoulder point as a bone where the shoulder meets the upper arm when you lift your arm slightly.
Bust point distance: horizontally from one bust point to the other.
Bust depth: from the side of the neck to the bust point.

For Merl there are three more lengths: the front length from the hollow of the neck straight down to the band, and at the back neck point to waist and shoulder point to waist, both straight down. We use them to work out the slope of your shoulders and whether your back needs extra length.

Step 4

Lengths from the band

On the left a side view with a band at the waist: a short arrow from the band to hip level and a long arrow from the side of the neck to the knee. On the right a seated figure with an arrow from the band down to the seat

Measure these lengths at the side and straight down, not along the curve. It's easiest if your helper holds the tape vertically.

Hip depth: at the side from the band straight down to the level of the fullest part of the hips. Careful: for the dress it starts at the band at your natural waist, for trousers at the lower elastic. These are two different measurements.
Neck to knee (Pulo): from the side of the neck straight down to the middle of the knee. We use it to calculate the length of the dress.
Seat height (trousers): sit upright on a firm chair and measure at the side from the band straight down to the seat.
Crotch length (trousers): with a helper, place the tape at the band at the front and lead it loosely through the crotch to the back. Read it where it crosses an imaginary line straight down from the crotch.
Inseam, side length, centre back length: each down to the floor, barefoot.

Step 5

Arm and wrist

On the left a front view with an arrow from the shoulder point down the arm to the wrist. On the right a slightly bent arm close up: an arrow from the shoulder point over the elbow to the wrist, tape measures around the upper arm and the wrist

Arm length: from the shoulder point over the slightly bent elbow to the wrist bone. Bent because otherwise the sleeve ends up too short as soon as you move.
Upper arm: around the fullest part of the relaxed upper arm. Measure both arms and take the larger value.
Wrist: around the narrowest point.

Arm length is easiest if you rest your hand loosely on your hip and your helper measures.

Step 6

Check, note down, save

On the left a figure in a thick jumper with a tape measure over it (wrong). On the right a notepad with ticked lines, a pencil and a tape measure (right)

Never measure over clothes. Even a thin jumper adds a few centimetres to every circumference.
Take every measurement twice. If the two values differ by more than a centimetre, measure a third time.
Don't round in your favour. A made-to-measure pattern fits the real numbers. If you enter a smaller waist, you'll get a garment that pulls there.
Quick sanity check: high bust is smaller than bust, back length suits your height, left and right are similar. The order form checks these things too and gives you a note if something looks unusual.

If you're logged in, you can save your measurements in your account, so they're already filled in next time. Measure again if your body has changed.