Sewing from a pattern: how to get started

Each pattern piece has a name and how many times to cut it, for example “cut 2 mirrored”. Plus symbols that help you cut and sew:

• Grainline: a long arrow. It runs parallel to the fabric's selvedge.
• Fold: a thick dashed line labelled “fold”. Place this edge on the folded fabric and the piece is cut twice as wide.
• Matching marks: diamonds or short lines at the edge. They show which points meet when you sew.

Measure bust, waist and hips and compare with the size chart on the product page. The size finder there suggests a size right away. Our sizes follow body measurements, not the size you buy in shops. If you're between two sizes, draw a line between them in the all-sizes file, or order made to measure. More in the size guide.

Print the A4 file at 100 % without scaling and measure the test square. Then trim the pages along the grey frame and tape them edge to edge. If you'd rather not tape, have the A0 file printed at a copy shop. The printing guide explains how.

Pre-wash the fabric the way you'll wash the finished piece, then iron it flat. Cotton and linen shrink after the first wash otherwise. Find the right side (the nicer one) and the selvedge (the firm edge).

Lay out the pattern pieces following the cutting layout in the instructions. The grainline arrow runs parallel to the selvedge, fold pieces go on the folded edge. Pin or weigh them down, then cut. Transfer the matching marks as the pattern sheet says: mark diamonds with chalk, snip short lines 2 mm at most.

Read the instructions all the way through once before you start. Then step by step: usually place the pieces right sides together, sew along the seam line, backstitch at the start and end. Finish raw edges with a zigzag stitch or serger so they don't fray.

Press every seam before sewing the next one: first flat, then open or to one side. Everything becomes more accurate and the finished piece looks professional.