Learned the hard way

5 jersey traps and how to avoid them

Fabric over the table edge, skipped stitches, wavy hems, stretched seams and an eaten seam start: five typical jersey traps and how to avoid them.

Left: jersey hanging over the table edge and stretching, right: lying on the table with the rest on a chair

From the series Learned the hard way.

Jersey is the go-to fabric for comfortable clothes, and just like Hanne and Merle you can sew it on a regular sewing machine. It does have a few quirks, though. Almost every problem comes from the fact that it gives: when cutting, when sewing and even when pressing.

Here are five traps almost everyone falls into, and how to avoid them.

What you need

Jersey (ballpoint) needles, stretch needles for fabrics with lots of elastane
Rotary cutter, cutting mat and weights
Fusible stay tape or narrow interfacing
A few fabric scraps for testing

Step 1

Trap 1: fabric hanging over the table edge

When cutting, the rest of the fabric likes to hang over the table edge. Jersey stretches under its own weight, heavy viscose jersey like for Merle especially. The pieces end up longer and skewed, and that doesn't go away. You only notice when the edges no longer match while sewing.

Put all of the fabric on the table. Roll or fold up whatever doesn't fit at the end of the table.
If the table is too small, put a chair or the ironing board next to it, or cut on the floor.
Let the fabric lie flat for a while before cutting so it can relax.

Step 2

Trap 2: the machine skips stitches

Left: a sharp needle pierces a loop, right: a rounded tip slides between the loops

If the machine skips stitches on jersey, it's almost always the needle. A universal needle pierces the knit loops. A jersey (ballpoint) needle has a slightly rounded tip and slides between the loops.

Jersey needle for regular jersey, ponte, sweatshirt fleece and French terry.
Stretch needle for fabrics with a lot of elastane, e.g. sports or swimwear fabrics.
Even the right needle gets dull. After a few projects, put in a new one.

And check the stitch: a regular straight stitch on jersey pops as soon as it's stretched. Use a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag.

Step 3

Trap 3: the hem goes wavy

Left: a wavy, stretched hem, right: a straight hem with stay tape

A jersey hem that ripples like a lettuce leaf was stretched while sewing. The presser foot presses on the top layer, the feed dogs pull the bottom one, and the fabric gets longer in between.

Reduce the presser foot pressure if your machine allows it.
Press a narrow strip of fusible stay tape or interfacing into the hem fold. It stabilises the edge and makes sewing much easier.
Use a walking foot if you have one.
Just let the fabric feed, don't pull or push it.

Step 4

Trap 4: stretched out while pressing

Left: the iron slides back and forth and the seam distorts, right: it's set down and lifted

Ironing jersey like a blouse, sliding back and forth, stretches it lengthwise. Seams go wavy and edges get distorted.

Put the iron down, press briefly, lift it and set it down again a bit further along.
Press seams flat first, just as they were sewn, then fold the seam allowance over.
Choose the temperature for the material and test on a scrap. Viscose and elastane don't like high heat.

Step 5

Trap 5: the machine eats the start of the seam

Left: the start of the fabric is pulled into the needle plate, right: the seam starts on a scrap while the threads are held

With thin jersey, the machine likes to pull the start of the fabric down into the needle plate, and you get a thread tangle.

Hold the threads: when starting, hold the top and bobbin threads behind the presser foot and only let go after a few stitches.
Start on a scrap: begin on a small scrap of fabric and sew straight on onto your piece. Cut the scrap off afterwards and use it again next time.
A new needle helps here too, a dull one tends to push the fabric down.