Learned the hard way

Why tailors cut: cutting is half the sewing

I thought sewing was mostly about sewing. Until I noticed how much depends on cutting. What I learned from it.

Left: the scissors cut crookedly next to the highlighted size line, right: exactly on it

From the series Learned the hard way.

When I started sewing as a hobby, I thought sewing was mostly about … sewing. It's in the name, after all.

When I started sewing from patterns and eventually designing my own, I noticed how much time I spend cutting: fabric, paper, all sorts of things. And how much depends on it. If I had cut messily and crookedly, I no longer knew where the seam allowance actually was when sewing.

That's when I understood why in German a dressmaker is called a Schneiderin, literally a cutter. Suddenly it made sense. Cutting is really important and should always be done with care. Here's what I pay attention to today.

What you need

Sharp fabric scissors used for fabric only
Paper scissors
Rotary cutter, cutting mat and weights (or food tins)
Chalk or a disappearing marker

Step 1

Cut the paper as carefully as the fabric

The mistake often starts with the paper pattern. Cut exactly on the line for your size, not next to it and not “roughly”. What's 3 mm off on paper is 3 mm off on the fabric too, on every edge.

Trace the line for your size with a highlighter first. If you're between two sizes, see Between two sizes.
Paper only with paper scissors. Paper quickly dulls fabric scissors.

Step 2

Lay the fabric flat and straight

Pattern piece on the fabric, two tape measures show the same distance from the grainline arrow to the selvedge

Before you cut: smooth the fabric flat, nothing hangs over the table edge (that stretches it, see 5 jersey traps). The grainline arrow on the pattern piece runs parallel to the selvedge. Measure at both ends of the arrow to check that the distance to the selvedge is the same.

Step 3

Weights instead of pins, long cuts instead of nibbling

Left: pins make the fabric ripple, right: weights keep the paper flat while a rotary cutter cuts

Pins lift the fabric and distort it a little. Weights keep the paper flat without moving anything.

Make long, calm cuts with the scissors, keeping the lower blade on the table.
Run the rotary cutter slowly and in one go around curves.
Walk around the table instead of turning the fabric towards you.

Step 4

Take the markings with you right away

Small notches clipped into the seam allowance and chalk marks on the wrong side

Notches, centre marks and placement points show you later what belongs together. Clip them about 3 mm into the seam allowance while cutting, or mark them with chalk on the wrong side. You won't find them precisely afterwards.

Step 5

Know where the seam allowance is

Left: a wavy cut edge with an unclear stitching line, right: a straight edge with an even seam allowance

Our patterns already include seam allowance; how wide it is is stated in the instructions. But that only works if the cut edge is right: you sew at a distance from the edge, and if the edge is wavy, so is the seam.

If you're unsure, trace the stitching line with chalk at tricky spots, for example curves like the armhole or crotch.

Step 6

With care: check first, then cut

Clipboard with a ticked list, next to it pattern pieces the right way round on the fabric, one on the fold

Don't cut when you're tired or distracted. Before the scissors go in, go through everything once:

Are all pieces there, and how many of each do you cut?
What goes on the fold?
Are the pieces the right way round (with directional prints or nap, all in the same direction)?

Once it's cut, it's cut. The two minutes of checking save you fabric and frustration.